Insider guide to Capri – Italy

Sweet scents waft around olive and lemon trees in huge pots outside JK Place Capri, a Fellini movie in hotel form, that’s far away enough from the buzz and night-life noise, yet somehow still managing to feel in the thick of things. This gleaming white, shore-side hotel is the kind of place you want to re-book as soon as you leave.

There’s a wide wraparound deck for aperitivi and meals, a proper-sized swimming pool with views towards the Bay of Naples and a great little spa that uses Santa Maria Novella products.

For something a little more picturesque, the citrus-themed Da Paolino has tables laid out under a splendid lemon arbour where you can have dinner on exemplary spaghetti alle vongole (with clams), sea bass in a salt crust and delizie al limone (a lemon pudding).

The only three Michelin stars restaurant on the island are all claimed by the earlier mentioned Capri Palace. L’Olivo is a cocoon of a restaurant where you sit down on sofas covered in Loro Piana cashmere to fragment Ischian chef Andrea Migliaccio’s elegant, light-handed understanding of regional favourites such as roast suckling pig with apricot jelly and lemon-scented fennel cream.